we already explained how to draw the patron of posterior part for the classic jacket In the following link
today we will complete the second part
Second: Patron's sketch of the anterior part
- Draw the rectangle ABCD so that the length is equal to the length of the jacket 60 cm and the width of the rectangle
is (4/3 half) the bust circumference
(100/2 = 50 * 4/3 = 37.5 cm)
- The straight line (E and F) is drawn parallel to the neckline (A-D) and away from it by
the Shoulder-waist back height = 40cm long.
names of these lines and what they represent
· Line (a-d) represents the neckline
· Line (e f) represents the waist line
· Line (b-c) represents a Hip line
· (d-c) represents the middle of the front line (center front)
· Line (A- B) represents a side line
- Put the point (s) at the right of point (c) by one
third of the width of the patron (37.5 / 3 = 12.5 cm) and draw a vertical line
up away from the mid-line by 17
cm (the
height of bust apex point) and put point (1)
Note: We determine the
height of bust apex point in the following manner:
We subtract the bust apex point
height from the shoulder
waist front height (42- 25 = 17 cm in this patron). This is the distance between the
bust apex point and the waist line
- Put
the point (R)
to the left of point (A) by one third of the width of the Patron (12.5 cm)
- From
the point (R) take a vertical line down away from the neck-line by = (half the shoulder waist back height + 3 cm) (ie 23 cm) and place the point (2)
and this is the line of the front armhole curve.
- Draw from the point (2)
a line parallel to the waist line meets the side-line (A-B) in
point (L)
{This is the armhole line}
-
Draw from the point (1)
a line parallel to the waist line that meets the center front line (d - c) at point (m).
- Place the point (N)
on the armhole line at one third the distance between the two points (2 - L) and draw down from(N) a vertical line that meets the hip-line at point (Z).
To draw a bust dart
- Put the point (3) on the neckline to the right of point (D) with a distance less than the distance (A - R) by (2 cm)
- Then
we connect the points (1 - 3) and extend this line
upwards.
- along
this line put point (4) at 25 cm from the point (1) (BUST APEX point) where (the height of bust apex point in
this Patron is 25 cm)
- Put the point (5) on the neckline at the right of point (3) by 1/3
of the distance (D-R)
- then connect the point (1) with point (5) by line and extend this line upwards.
- along this line 25 cm from point (1) put point (6) and thus YOU CAN SEE the BUST DART (between the angle 6-1-4)
To draw
the FRONT line of the shoulder
- Put the point (7) in the middle of the line (A - L) and then connect the
points (6) and (7) with a line
- and determine
on it shoulder width (13.5 cm) and put the point (8) to be the line (6-8) is the front line of the shoulder.
To draw
the FRONT armhole curve
- Put the point (9) above point (2) by (7 cm - constant for each size) and then put point (10) in the middle of the distance (2-9)
Draw a curved line connecting the points (8),(9), (10) and (n)
- Put the point (11) above point (L) by (4 cm) Then enter it (1 cm) inside the Patron
- The armhole is
completed TO POINT (11)as shown
in the figure
This curve represents the front armhole curve
Modification the waist line in the FRONT as
follows:
The classic jacket contains TWO
DARTS in the anterior Patron , and this keeps it more detailed and more
accurate and completely fit to your body .
First: To draw the front dart of
the waist
- Put the point (12) to the
left of point (1) by ( the 2 Bust apex points width ie 10.5 cm in this patron) and draw down
a vertical line that meets to the hip line at point (13).
go down the point (1) A distance of 5 cm (constant for each size) and place the point (14) on the dart line
Then place a point (15) on the dart
line- above point (S) by 1/2 length of the hip height (10 cm).
Draw between the points (14-15) a
dart in width (2 cm)
on the waist line.
second: To draw the lateral dart of the waist
- To determine the amount of reduction
needed we subtract (quarter of the waist circumference +1 cm) from the (quarter of the
bust circumference)
- so 5 cm needed for reduction
- Place the point (16) on the top of the point (Z) by 1/3 the hip height.
- Draw between the two points (N-16) a dart in width (5 cm) on the waist line according to
the above measurements.
To draw the side line
·
moving The point (11) 1 cm to the inside and connect it to point (E) and then draw a line curved to the outside away from the middle
of the line connecting them by (1 cm)
as shown in Figure
·
determine along the extension of the line (13 - B) the
hip width from the front as
follows
place the point (17) along
the hip line
Connect Point (E) with point (17) and draw a line curved outwards from the middle of the line
connecting them by half (cm)
as shown in the figure.
The line (11-E-17)
represents the patron side line.
This is how we finished the PATRON of the classic jacket
Still we have to know how to transfer the bust dart
And how to draw the collar
Please follow us and wait for next
article to know this
Thank you for your follow-up, I hope
you will be benefited
Saraalsayed
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