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we already explained how to draw the patron of posterior part for the classic jacket In the following link
















today we will complete the second part 











Second: Patron's sketch of the anterior part








  • Draw the rectangle ABCD so that the length is equal to the length of the jacket 60 cm and the width of the rectangle
    is
    (4/3 half) the bust circumference





 (100/2 = 50 * 4/3 = 37.5 cm)










  • The straight line (E and F) is drawn parallel to the neckline (A-D) and away from it by 
    the   Shoulder-waist  back height  
    = 40cm
     long.






names of these lines and what they represent





·       Line (a-d) represents the neckline


·       Line (e f) represents the waist line


·       Line (b-c) represents a Hip line


·       (d-c) represents the middle of the front line (center front)


·       Line (A- B) represents a side line




  • Put the point (s) at the right of point (c) by one
    third of the width of the patron 
    (37.5 / 3 = 12.5 cm) and draw a vertical line
    up  away from the mid-line by 
    17
    cm 
    (the
    height of bust apex point) and put point (1)







Note: We determine the
height of bust apex point
 in the following manner:








We subtract the bust apex point
height
 
from the shoulder
waist front height
 (42- 25 = 17 cm in this patron). This is the distance between the
bust apex point and the waist line

































  • Put
    the point (R)
    to the left of point
    (A) by one third of the width of the Patron (12.5 cm)






  • From
    the point (R)  take a vertical line down away from the neck-line by = (half the shoulder waist  back height + 3 cm) (ie 23 cm) and place the point (2)
    and this  is the line of the front armhole curve.
















































  •     Draw from the point (2)
    a line parallel to the waist line meets the side-line (A-B) in
    point
    (L)
    {This is the armhole
     line}






  •      
    Draw from the point (1)
    a line parallel to the waist line that meets the center front line
    (d - c) at point (m).






  •    Place the point (N)
    on the armhole
     line at one third the distance between the two points (2 - L) and draw down from(N) a vertical line that meets the hip-line at point (Z).























    To draw a bust dart








  •   Put the point (3) on the neckline to the right of point (D) with a distance less than the distance (A - R) by (2 cm)






  •    Then
    we connect the points
    (1 - 3) and extend this line
    upwards.






  •    along
    this line put  point
    (4) at  25 cm from the point (1) (BUST APEX point) where (the height of bust apex point in
    this Patron is 25 cm)






  •   Put the point (5) on the neckline at the right of point (3) by 1/3
    of the distance
    (D-R)























  •     then connect the point (1) with point (5) by line and extend this line upwards.






  •    along this line 25 cm from point (1) put point (6) and thus YOU CAN SEE the BUST DART (between the angle 6-1-4)
















To draw
the FRONT line of the  shoulder 




  • Put the point (7) in the middle of the line (A - L) and then connect the
    points
    (6) and (7) with a line






  • and determine
    on  it shoulder width  
    (13.5 cm)  and put the point (8) to be the line (6-8) is the front  line of the shoulder.

























To draw
the  FRONT armhole curve 




  • Put the point (9) above point (2) by (7 cm - constant for each size) and then put point (10) in the middle of the distance (2-9)









  • Draw  a curved line connecting the points 
    (8),(9), (10)  and (n)  






  • Put the point (11) above point (L) by (4 cm) Then enter it (1 cm) inside the Patron






  • The armhole is
    completed  TO POINT
    (11)as shown
    in the figure 












This curve represents the front armhole curve 






































Modification the waist line  in the FRONT as
follows:


















The classic jacket contains TWO
DARTS in the anterior  Patron , and this keeps it more detailed and more
accurate and completely fit to your body .








First: To draw  the front dart of
the waist




  • Put the point (12) to the
    left of point
    (1) by ( the 2  Bust apex points  width ie 10.5 cm in this patron) and draw down
    a vertical line that meets to the hip line  at point
    (13).







  • go down the point 
    (1) A distance of 5 cm (constant for each size) and place the point (14) on the dart line







  • Then place a point
    (15) on the dart
    line

  • above point (S) by 1/2 length of the hip height (10 cm).







  • Draw between the points
    (14-15) a
    dart in width
    (2 cm)
    on the waist line.


















second: To draw  the lateral dart of the waist







  • To determine the amount of reduction
    needed we subtract (quarter of the waist circumference +1 cm) from the (quarter of the
    bust circumference
    )








  •  so 5 cm  needed for reduction 






  • Place the point (16) on the top of the point (Z) by 1/3 the  hip height. 






  •   Draw between the two points (N-16)  a dart in width (5 cm) on the waist line according to
    the above measurements.







To draw the side line





·      
moving The point (11)   1 cm to the inside  and connect it to point (E) and then draw a line curved to the outside away from the middle
of the line connecting them by
(1 cm)
as shown in Figure


·      
determine along the extension  of the line (13 - B) the
hip width from the front as
follows































Take this output (39 cm) right  to point (13) and
place the point
(17) along
the hip line 























Connect Point (E) with point (17) and draw a line curved outwards from the middle of the line
connecting them by
half (cm)
as shown in the figure.


  The line (11-E-17)
represents the patron side line.


  This is how we finished the PATRON of the classic jacket





Still we have to know how to transfer the bust dart


And how to draw the collar











Please follow us and wait for next
article to know this


Thank you for your follow-up, I hope
you will be benefited




Saraalsayed









































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