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Pattern of Classic jacket
I saw many books and blogs talking about classic jacket had
painted pattern but many of them is not the actual jacket classic pattern
There is a big difference between ordinary jacket Pattern
and the classic jacket Pattern
you will notice The difference between them if you draw
both for yourself and sew both jackets
You will find a pig difference between both of them in
implementation and the final shape of the model
the classic is more attractive discipline because it is
designed in order to make pattern for each part and every
curve of the body
Now You can begin to take your special measurements
for drawing .
TO KNOW HOW TO TAKE YOUR MEASUREMENTS AND WHAT ARE THE EXPRESSIONS USED MEAN
YOU HAVE TO READ THE ARTICLE IN THE FOLLOWING LINK
·
measurements we need to draw classic jacket pattern
- Bust circumference
---- 96 cm - waist circumference ----- 72 cm
- Hip Circumference
-----110 cm - Shoulder-waist front height ----42 cm
- Shoulder-waist back height-----
40cm - Bust apex point height -----
25 cm - distance from point meet the apex point
in chest till CONVERGENCE POINT
(is point joined shoulder line with neck) - Neck circumference ----
35 cm - Shoulder width ----- 13
cm - back width -----18 cm
- 2 Bust apex points width
(Bust separation width) ----20 cm
This represents distance between two Bust points which important
to locate Bust dart - hip height ----20
cm - The length of the jacket 60 cm
These
measurements already used in Alchorsag ( the upper part of dress) and Skirt as
it is, but when used to draw jacket pattern it should be added (4 cm) for each
of the following measurements :
1.
Bust circumference: 96 cm 4 + cm = 100 cm
2.
waist circumference: 72 cm 4 + cm = 76 cm
3.
hip Circumference: 110 cm 4 + cm = 114 cm
These additions are needed to work in the expanded jacket has to
be it for the following reasons:
1. First,
there is often the lining of the jacket
2. Second,
often wearing a jacket over blouse or dress
3. Third:
the jacket is not adjacent to the body like the dress, but be a little wide to
give him the familiar shape.
It should also be added (half cm) for each of the following sizes
in order to be integrated expansion:
4.
Shoulder width: 13 cm + 1/2 cm = 13.5 cm
5.
back width: 18 cm + 1/2 cm = 18.5 cm
6.
Bust separation width: 10 cm + 1/2 cm = 10.5 cm
The longitudinal measurements as they remain
unchanged
First: Patron's sketch of posterior part
measurements mentioned
are hypothetical but certainly everybody has its different measurements
to find out what these
terms mean and how take your measurements properly please visit
next article
· Draw a rectangle A
B C D so that its length is equal to the length
of the jacket = 60 cm and
width of the rectangle equal to the width back width accurately, = 18.5 cm
· draw the line (e
-f) parallel
to the straight line (a-d) and
away from it by the Shoulder-waist back height = 40cm
· then draw the line (x
- y) parallel to the line (a-d) and away from it by the half
of Shoulder-waist back height = 20 + 3 = 23 cm
names of these lines and what
they represent
·
Line (a-d) represents the neckline
·
Line (x-y) represents a line underarm
·
Line (e f) represents the waist line
·
Line (b-c) represents a Hip line
·
(A B-line) represents the middle of the back line (half back)
·
Line (d - c) represents a side line
To draw back neck linee
· put the point (1) on
the neckline left to point (a) by 1/5 the area around the neck (7 cm)
+ 1 cm (this
is fixed number of any size) = 8 cm
· We
measure down from the point (a)
of 1.5 cm (this
is fixed number of any size) and put a
point then connect it with point (1) with curved line which
represents back
neck line
To draw the back line of the
shoulder
·
put point (2) below the
point (d) by (4 cm) and then connect the points (1 -2) and extend this line to the left slightly
and then determine on it shoulder width and put point (3).
To draw the back armhole curve
Place point (4) at the top of the point (Y) by 4 cm and place a point (5) at the left of point (4) by 1 cm.
Draw a curve from point (3) to point (5) as shown
This curve represents the back armhole curve
Modification the waist line in
the back as follows:
·
First:
modification of the back line (A B-line)
1. Put
points (6) on
the middle line to the left of point (E) by 2 cm
2. Put
points (7) in
the middle of the distance between (A
- X)
3. connect
points (6-7) line
and then we connect the line (6
- b).
·
Second: modification of side
line (C-D line)
To
calculate the value of reduction from the side
subtract (1/4 waist circumference (19cm) +1cm) from (1/4 bust circumference 25 cm )
so= 25-20 = 5 cm
5 cm more needed to reduced at waist line
Take this output (5
cm) at the right of the point (F) and
put the point (8)
·
We
connect the point (5)
with point (8) and
then draw a line curved inward away from the middle of the line connecting
them by (1 cm)
· calculate the half of hip
circumference (114/2 = 57)
Then take a third of this output -1 cm left to point (B) and put point (9) cm)
(57/3 = 19 -1 = 18 cm)
·
·
We connect the point (8) with point (9) and then draw a line curved
outward away from the middle of the line connecting them by (half - cm) as
shown as
now we
finished Drawing Pattern of posterior part
follow us in next article to complete drawing
of the anterior part
https://how-you-sew.blogspot.com/2019/02/original-classic-jacket-patron-second.html
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