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This is the third and last article for drawing Patron  of the classic jacket





we already explained how to draw the patron of posterior and anterior parts for the classic jacket In the following links



















posterior patron of classic jacket









anterior patron of classic jacket
















today we will complete the third part 


It is about how to Move position of the bust dart and draw the  Jacket collar.











a) how to Move position of the bust dart
































  • shorten the new dart  3 cm to become the final bust dart after transfer and default is specified in green





















B)drawing the jacket collar





Note that  we will not draw neck curve in the usual way we used in the other Patrons because the classic  jacket collar is drawn with a matching  anterior patron  for the jacket in the following way:







  • Extend the shoulder line to the left of the convergence point (green dot) (2 cm) and then put  point (19)






  • Put the point (20) down the point (M) by (2 cm)






  • connect point (20) with  point (19) and then extend this line up by 10 cm or slightly more






  • Draw a line parallel to the extension of the line (20-19) away from it by 3 cm (the blue line), which starts at the right of the convergence point by approximately 1 cm










  • Then determine on this line the length of the posterior neck curve (quarter neck circumference) (approximately 7.5 cm) and put the point (21)






  •  draw a line from point  (21)  with a length equal to the width of the collar (8 cm - constant for each size) and then put point (22) as shown below.














  • Draw the outer of the collar shape (you can choose which shape you prefer) 

  • draw it on the patron as shown (red lines)
























  • fold the paper on the line from the point (20-19) (Green Line), which extends to the top

  •  and then copy the drawn collar to outside on the patron.(red lines)







































open the folded paper again to show the collar and then connect the blue lines as shown









This is how we finished the original sketch of the classic jacket collar (the shaded part of the red)



this is the basic shape Which you can modify to thousands of shapes.

































  • Separate the collar and modify at  shown  line by opening with the scissors and give it one cm width and copy  the final shape on other paper to be ready for use













This image shows the final patron shape of the classic jacket after cutting at outer lines
































You can find out the meaning of the terms used in the article in the following link



https://how-you-sew.blogspot.com/2019/03/measurements-and-expressions.html








Thanks for following

This article is translated



So I hope that if there are any comments on the translation that you tell me to correct them
















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